The capital offers a wide range of sushi restaurants at equally diverse prices. With the relaunch and redesign of Gen Ji Ko, part of Reignwood Club’s collaboration with soon-to-open next-door neighbor Fairmont Hotel, diners can now savor high-end sushi at mid-range prices.

Although the menu imitates expensive Japanese joints by featuring pricey teppanyaki ingredients such as kobe beef or lobster (¥680), Gen Ji Ko succeeds in its ability to keep the freshest fish in stock. The tuna (straight from Canada) and salmon (care of Norway) in the sashimi platter were sharp, fresh and rich in flavor. This comes as part of the Japanese buffet offered for lunch and dinner, along with tempura, teppanyaki, dessert and unlimited soda, sake and beer. At ¥168 (plus 15 percent), it’s a steal. The cold green tea noodles (¥35) came with a wasabi-soy-green onion-quail egg concoction to dip the noodles. It’s both classic and contemporary. Our vegetable tempura (¥45) managed to be light, crunchy, savory and not greasy.

The service surprised us. Despite the moderate prices, we received the kind of treatment expected at the most lofty of eateries. Add to that the genteel ambience of a quiet room made of stone, wood and glass and you start to get the feeling this place is one of the best values in Beijing. This is how we like our Japanese food: light, modern, tasty and friendly to the wallet.

http://www.cityweekend.com.cn/beijing/listings/dining/japanese/has/gen-ji-ko/