First-time travelers to Asia often make the mistake of thinking they can hit more than one or two countries in a single short itinerary. Even allowing for a couple of months, trying to border-cross or puddle-jump in order to “take in all the sights” would be insanity — if not because of time constraints, then simply because such a strategy would undermine the richness and depth of all that can be seen.

Asia, as we all know, is a big place: it’s home to the majority of the world’s population (including, obviously, its two largest nations), several of history’s oldest civilizations, and a breathtaking diversity of cultures, languages, foods, religions and ideas. Any itinerary to the region is bound to be jam-packed and overwhelmed with eating, shopping, temple-viewing, museum-going, nightlife and R&R.

Instead, let me propose an alternative method: just visit Taipei.

Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/fish_at_taipei/

A charming, smart, cosmopolitan city that manages to be simultaneously contemporary and traditional, this tight conurbation of under three million brings together a wonderful taste of some of the best you can expect from anywhere within the region. Whether it’s food or shopping, religion or arts, getting down or merely chilling out, this town’s got it all. Here, five ways to whet your Taipei appetite. Just be forewarned: visitors tend to experience more than a hint of city envy.

1) Cuisine: Its location means that Taiwan, historically a crossroads of cultures, is home to an incredible variety of international cuisine, not to mention diverse Chinese cooking. It was once colonized by the Japanese, and to this day welcomes to a strong Korean and U.S. influence. For over 300 years, southern Chinese have been bringing their culinary chops to the island; when the Communists forced the Guomintang out, mainland Chinese from every province flocked this way as well. Ergo one of the richest collections of the best Chinese food to be found, anywhere. Did I mention that street food is king, with some of the most vibrant night markets in Asia? Shilin is one of the largest, known for sausages and stinky tofu. I mean it: dig in.

2) Congregate: Unlike its big brotherly next-door neighbor, Taiwan maintains not only a vibrant democracy and a sometimes astoundingly vitriolic free press — it also upholds freedom of religion as a matter of fact (and not just theory). Christians, Muslims, Jews congregate freely. And while the People’s Republic of China claims Buddhism as a state-certified religion, in fact it’s near death — or should I say, on its way to reincarnation?

Photo courtesy of Francisco Diez http://www.flickr.com/photos/22240293@N05/

In the Republic of China (ROC), aka Taiwan, every village, town and city — Taipei included — supports vibrant Buddhist temples, which foreigners are welcome to pass through as any local would. Likewise, Taoism is still riding the river of life here, and counts itself as a viable counterpoint to Buddhism. Even then, Chinese and Taiwanese folk religions add a layer of nuance and color to religious interpretations.

3) Culture: Taipei’s National Palace Museum boasts one of the most important — and probably the largest — collections of Chinese art in the world. Urban legend has it that there are enough treasures (taken from the Mainland by the Guomindang in 1949) stored up for there to be continually rotating exhibitions every single day of the year.

Photo courtesy of http://www.flickr.com/photos/koonisutra/

It’s not all mummified behind glass vitrines: performance art, especially contemporary dance, is cutting edge. In addition to the world-famous Cloud Gate Dance Theatre, Taipei’s “Lab” enables top dancers and choreographers to come together and create new works. Chou Shu-yi, a locally born-and-bred dancer, recently won the first-ever Sadler’s Wells Global Dance Contest and participated in last summer’s Eliot Feld Mandance festival in New York.

4) Chill: Taipei’s fall will soon lead into the cold, damp winter months, which, perhaps surprisingly, are the perfect time to visit the city. A natural abundance of volcanically activated hot water springs up throughout the newly upscale Beitou, formerly known as a red light district.

While governing Taiwan during the early twentieth century, the Japanese developed hot springs resorts that reminded them of home. The area around Beitou, supplied naturally by the geothermal energy of the neighbouring Yang Ming Shan volcano, became an obvious location for the beer halls, tea gardens, bathhouses and intimate hotels so beloved of the era.

Now, thanks to the opening of a local MRT stop, the Beitou of today is characterized by its high-quality spas, good hotels, excellent living accommodation and green and lush environment. A quick soak in perfect 60ºC waters — cool beers at hand and a massage in mind — is right around the corner. Public transport awaits.

5) Karaoke: What single cultural phenomenon better unites Asia’s myriad cultures than that of gathering religiously with friends to drunkenly sing out-of-tune and out-of-tempo outdated ‘80s American pop? Denizens of Taipei do this perhaps more fervently than anyone else, often paying homage at the temple called Cash Box, or Qian Gui in Mandarin. Warning: Taiwanese sing like rock and opera stars, so bring your best game.

Originally published in the September 7, 2010 edition of TabletTalk, the weekly blog from TabletHotels bringing you updates on global living.

How are you rebranding?
Once we receive government approval, we’ll become Timor Air. That means new website, logos and uniforms to build domestic and international awareness for Timor Air as East Timor’s first airline. Tickets will be sold on global ticket distribution systems.

Currently, you fly to Singapore only. What other destinations will Timor Air serve?
We’ll start operations to Australia, including Darwin, Brisbane and Sydney. There will be flights to Hong Kong, and in Indonesia we’ll go to Denpasar and Jakarta.

What about domestic services?
During the first part of 2011, we’ll start flying to Baucau, Ocussi and Suai and eventually we’ll fly to Los Palos.

Originally published in the October 2010 issue of Monocle magazine.

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Text and photos by Manuela Zoninsein.

Click here for the full PDF of the article: Beyond Bagels.

Originally published in the June 2010 issue of F&T magazine.

words & photography: Manuela S. Zoninsein
additional images: shutterstock

Vibrant ethnic minority cultures, unforgettable local cuisine and carefully preserved architecture — the ancient capital of Dali and its checkerboard-like alleyways hold the allure and prospect of travelling back in time for culture, history and food aficionados. Dali once served as an important hub between the ancient Silk Road connecting Sichuan Province with Southeast and South Asia. Today, it links the buzzing capital of Kunming with mountainous Lijiang and its Tiger Leaping Gorge, continuing on to serene Zhongdian, also known as Shangri-La. Dali’s government separates its new developments from the Old Town, ensuring the latter retains its charms and native flavours. When the clean mountain air turns crisp at night, travellers simply return to cozy hotel retreats to vanish into the city’s picturesque past.

With so many rich influences interwoven into the fabric of life in this historic crossroads, exploring the various cultures in Dali Prefecture is a must. Dali boasts the highest number of ethnic groups among all provinces and autonomous regions in China — 25 of the total 56, in fact. Day trips to any variety of minority ethnic communities can easily be arranged through your hotel or any tour operator located along Yangren Jie (Westerner’s Street), the bustling thoroughfare catering to cosmopolitan travellers drawn to Dali’s charms. Alternatively, hire a taxi for the day or plan for a few exhilarating bike excursions throughout the region — just remember to bring a map along to guide you.

Bikes are available for rental at many guesthouses and rental huts around town and prices start from CNY10 (US$1.50) per day. Bikes vary greatly in quality so shop around for the best deal: the Chinese Merida brand and Taiwan’s Giant are among the better options. Taxis in Old Town generally cost CNY5 (about US$0.70) for under 3km; bargaining is commonplace and though most drivers will ask for CNY10 (about US$1.50), all prices are negotiable, especially for locations outside the Old Town. A taxi to Dali New City will cost around CNY40 (US$5.90).

For a bird’s eye view of the rich history of Dali Prefecture, take time to explore the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture Museum in the New City. Its extensive collection of exhibits has signage in both Chinese and English, and is set around a lovely traditional garden (CNY10/ US$1.50, for entrance). Shaping Market (about 30km north of Dali) in Shaping Town offers a lively weekly market with plenty of local colour. Get there early to see local Bai and Yi ethnic traders out en force, exchanging their wares in the expansive outdoor bazaar that is renowned for its variety of products. The breadth of vegetable, meat, basket, flower, fabric and even horse-trading vendors will awe first-time visitors.

Xizhou (about 20km north of Dali) can be visited on the way back from Shaping Market. Xizhou has almost 200 national heritage-listed private houses dating from the Qing Dynasty, whose detailed designs serve as some of the best examples of traditional Qing architecture in China. The story goes that craftsmen from Xizhou often travelled throughout Southeast Asia to learn techniques and source materials for building and decorating. When they made their fortunes, they returned to Xizhou to build their own dream homes.

As most of these houses are currently occupied, first knock and ask politely for permission to enter. The family estate of the Yan clan is preserved as a museum and open to the public, although the best way to see the finest examples is with a local guide. Many of the artifacts found in such attics date back to the Song Dynasty. The Linden Centre is another worthy stop; its helpful owners will also direct you to the most historic haunts.

If it is living culture you are seeking, then the best option is to spend a day exploring the area around Erhai Lake. Boats can be easily arranged through any of the hotels or tourist touts along the main strip — check out the photobooks they carry to get a sense of what the day will entail. Above all, keep in mind the saying: you get what you pay for. Ask about visiting Bai villages and perhaps about a house-visit or lunch with a local family. Gather a group of like-minded travellers and you’ll enjoy a great day out.

Many travellers combine a trip to Erhai Lake with a visit to the Wase Market on the lake’s eastern shore. Wase is a traditional and conservative Bai town with a weekly market aimed at both townspeople and local farmers. The market offers an interesting look at life in a quiet country town and will let you buy some quirky souvenirs, and excellent Pu’er tea from the province.

Yunnan is one of China’s most naturally plentiful provinces: verdant green mountains and tea plantations provide cover for the largest diversity of plant life in China. In fact, Yunnan is home to over half of China’s 30,000 plants species, the majority of the nation’s almost 6,000 rare animals and more than 30 types of birds. The Cangshan Mountains have peaks reaching up to 4,200 km, with a variety of hiking trails that makes this an excellent excursion for both amateur and experienced hikers.

Take the chairlift located at the South Gate of the Old Town (CNY30/ US$4.40) past traditional gravestones and fern forests to an outfitted arrival station, where park rangers can provide guidance on the best trails. If you want to spend a few days exploring, consider hunkering down at the Higherland Inn, a backpackers hostel with sparse but simple cabins that serves Yunnan-style dinner with the lovely family. Be sure to request an electric blanket for the chilly nights!

Not just nature lovers, but food lovers, will be sated by the dishes China’s ethnic minority people serve up, flavours which often contradict and surprise those already familiar with Chinese cuisine. Be sure to try out the famous local goat’s milk white cheese called rubing, which comes either grilled with a chewy texture like mozzarella, or deep-fried and then wrapped around a stick, sometimes filled with red bean paste and coated with sugar.

Wander the Old City, whose major landmarks are the South and North Gates with Fuxing Road running between them, and Yangren Jie lined with cafés and tourist shops. Jingjing Restaurant on Fuxing, and Baili Xiang Restaurant on Erhai Lu, are known for their own distinctive versions of Bai-style cooking, incorporating lemongrass, cilantro and spice to create the sweet-and-sour combinations often found in Thai cooking. For something homey and familiar, taste the brownies at Sweet Tooth on the corner of Renmin Lu and Bo’ai Lu, a bakery run by a German woman who employs the hearing-impaired from the local community.

Yunnan is a piece of heaven on earth: gorgeous rolling green tea farms give way to ancient towns, where the largest collection of China’s ethnic minority people serve up stimulating food and generous interactions. Dali and its winding stone streets also mean visitors can either wander a quaint town, or escape to natural wonders nearby. Staying warm on chilly mountain nights shouldn’t be hard after eating delicious cooking and curling up with a loved one — it’s certainly an experience neither of you will forget.

ADDRESS BOOK

The Linden Centre (Xilinyuan Zhongxin)

Located about 30km from Dali’s Old Town, this expansive, luxurious and carefully renovated courtyard home in Xizhou adheres to traditional Bai elegance while serving Western modern standards. It is run by a Chinese-American family who aim for an immersive experience, so travellers seeking authenticity will be happily satisfied.

No. 5 Chengbei, Xizhou Town, Dali City. Tel: 86-872/245-2988; www.linden-centre.com

Three Pagoda Park Hotel (San Ta Yuan Dafandian)

Located in San Ta Park or Three Pagodas Park of Chongsheng Temple, one of the must-see sights of Dali, this is a Chinese-run hotel that manages to balance comfort and nature tastefully. Pavilions, long corridors and bridges connecting pools give it a Tang Dynasty feel.

In the Three Pagoda Park, San Ta Yuan, Dali City. Tel: 86-872/267-6521

Dali Regent Hotel (Dali Fenghua Xueyue Dajiudian)

This might be the most upscale hotel in Dali’s Old Town, with big clean rooms, comfortable beds, modern fixtures and a swimming pool, though its five stars don’t exactly meet international standards. The Bai Minority architectural style, organized around four courtyards, adds flavour and class.

Yu’er Lu, East Section, Dali City. Tel: 86-872/266-6666

DALI FACT BOX

Getting There

From Changi International Airport, Singapore Airlines flies direct to Kunming airport twice weekly, and China Eastern Airlines once per week. Malaysia Airlines departs from Kuala Lumpur to Kunming three times weekly. China Eastern Airlines, China Southern Airlines and Lucky Air all fly daily to Dali Airport from Kunming.

Transport

The easiest way to get around Dali’s Old Town is by foot or by bike, which can be rented from CN Y10 (US$1.50) per day. To visit more distant locations, hire a taxi and ask to pay by the meter (“da biao”). Along Erhai Lake, boats visit Guanyin Temple, Wase market and other Bai villages for day rates varying between CN Y50 to 100 (US$7.30 to US$14.60); CN Y30 (US$4.40) entrance fee is charged for lake visits.

Currency

The Chinese Yuan (CN Y) is used in Dali. CN Y10 = S$2.03 / RM4.88 / US$1.46

Population

The Dali prefecture is home to nearly 3.5 million people, with a 50-50 split between minority groups and the Han majority. The Bai represent about one-third of the total. The Old Town of Dali houses less than 40,000.

A Brief History

Dali lies just 350 km northwest of Kunming, the capital of Yunnan Province, but its quiet, clean, soothing and historic atmosphere couldn’t be more distinct. Situated on a fertile plateau between the Cangshan Mountains to the west and Erhai Lake to the east, the Old Town retains the same layout since it was rebuilt in 1382 during the Ming Dynasty, though its flavour is influenced by the Bai and Yi minorities who established the city during the Tang Dynasty.

Attire

Daily temperatures fluctuate more than the seasonal climate, going from chilly mornings and nights to warm days filled with piercing sunshine. Come prepared with sweaters and jackets to layer accordingly.

Language

Most locals speak Mandarin, though the elderly may still speak local minority dialects. Tour operators speak some English.

Time Zone

Dali operates on the same time zone as Singapore and Malaysia.

Food

Like in most Chinese cuisines, pork is found in nearly every main dish, making halal food difficult to find. Vegetarian friendly dishes are common in Yunnan cooking, so learn to say “wo bu chi rou” or “I don’t eat meat” in Mandarin.

Visa

Singaporeans do not need a visa to Dali if travelling for less than 15 days; Malaysians need an L visa for travel purposes. Please enquire at the nearest Chinese embassy or with your local travel agent.

Best Time to Visit

Dali experiences temperate climates year round, with no extremes in summer or in winter. However, to see nature in all its splendor, it is best to visit from March to June when spring’s rebirth is in full swing.

Best Tip

Despite chilly mornings and evenings, the clear mountain air focuses sunlight — so be sure to keep some sunblock handy. To really get a feel of local cultures, and be liberated from travel guides and touts, rent a bike for a few days and take your time wandering Dali’s streets.

Calling Code

The country code for China is +(86), and the area code for Dali is 0872. Dial 00 followed by the country code to make an international call.

First published in the March issue of Escape! magazine. For access to a PDF of the original version, including photos, click here.

■ D-22

University neighborhoods tend to provide a steady supply of rock fans, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise that the area around Tsinghua University is home to some of the city’s best clubs. Known for serving up the choicest sounds in town, this three-year-old, 200-capacity spot fills up quickly (dancing takes a bit of maneuvering). Still, D-22 is your best bet in catching Beijing’s top acts, like Carsick Cars, who toured Europe with Sonic Youth. And it gives back, too: musicians get a big cut of the door fees. “The goal is to be an incubator of talent,” explains manager Nevin Domer. 242 Chengfu Lu, Haidian District; 86-10/6265-3177; d-22.cn; entrance after 9 p.m. RMB40.

■ Mao Livehouse

At any time of the day, you’ll see musicians resplendent with Mohawks duck into Mao, a converted cinema that’s become the Beijing indie music scene’s unofficial hangout. Watch out for local heavyweights, like Queen Sea Big Shark, who opened for the Yeah Yeah Yeah’s in Beijing, and brace yourself for some serious jostling for space. And the name? The chairman, says owner Li Chi, “was the biggest rock ‘n’ roller of all.” 111 Gulou Dongdajie; 86-10/6402-5080;maolive.com; entrance RMB40.

■ Dos Kolegas

Before D-22, there was “2K,” as the owners call it: an important (if a bit far-flung) stop on the city’s rock circuit. Located in a drive-in movie theater, this cheerful dive hosts raucous summer parties and barbecues on the ample outdoor lawn; inside, underground bands and gold standards, like Hedgehog, get down to the business of rocking out. Weekends see the venue packed, especially on Saturdays when infectiously good electronica is played, though Tuesday reggae nights are a good way to groove mid-week. 21 Liangmaqiao Lu, Sanyuanqiao; 86/135-5227-6845; 2kolegas.com; entrance after 9 p.m. RMB40.

First published in the March 2010 issue of Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia.

Here’s a PDF of the original article, with photo by Matthew Niederhauser: 03insider_afterdarkmlv2

Originally published in the December 2009 issue of Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia.

Sichuan restaurants are a dime-a-dozen in Beijing, but Dezhe (1 Bei Jixiang Hutong, off Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng district; 86-10/6407-8615; dinner for two RMB100), a tiny restaurant tucked inside a busy hutong, stands out for its forthright cooking. You won’t go wrong with the jiama ji, poached chicken served in a Sichuan peppercorn–imbued broth, and the xiangla huiguo, or pork belly. Though it had a rocky start, Super Ganbei (No. 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang district; 86-10/8675-1138; dinner for two RMB300) at the capital’s Ullens Center for Contemporary Art has found the path to culinary success. Helmed by inventive, Irish-born chef Brian McKenna, the kitchen sends out winners like Moroccan spiced chicken served with apple couscous and lime mint yogurt and the playful chocolate spring roll accompanied with mango salad and vanilla ice cream.

PLAY

Built to appeal to Beijing’s Russian community, the subterranean, cheerfully garish Chocolate (19 Ritan Bei Lu,across north gate of Ritan Park, Chaoyang district; 86-10/8561-3988) packs in revelers of all nationalities, who groove to the wee hours as house dJ’s spin hip-hop, techno and R&B. Make sure to catch their over-the-top stage show, complete with leggy performers, a 1980’s cover band and holograms.

SHOP

Carrie Lee, a Canadian-Korean lawyer-turned-designer, uses ethnic fabrics and exotic skins sourced from throughout the region to create the covet-worthy handbags and accessories on display at D-SATA, or Dim Sum of All Things Asia (Unit A116, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang district; 86/134-3966-4067; d-sata.com). Socially conscious shoppers will approve of Lee’s use of recycled materials and the fair wages her artisans earn. Even better: bring in your own bag and get a 10 percent discount.

Originally published in the December 2009 issue of Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia.

12/16/2009

By Manuela S. Zoninsein and Steve Setzer

Signaling a move out of deflation, China’s consumer price index in November climbed 0.6% from a year earlier. This comes in tandem with the decision by China’s government, which had held prices for materials at superficially low levels, to allow them to rise and to begin introducing market competition in several key resource sectors.

Peng Sen, vice minister of China’s National Development and Reform Commission, said at a recent meeting the country is actively working to reform its resources pricing system. This move is part of a government push to achieve “more efficiency in industry,” says Rosealea Yao, research manager for Dragonomics Research & Advisory, Beijing. “It will help bring in excess capacity.”

Yao points to a report released last month by the European Chamber of Commerce in China that attributes much of the problem to the Chinese government’s overly large stimulus package. It claims the government “has poured credit into increasingly questionable projects and will almost certainly increase direct and indirect subsidies to investment and manufacturing.” Yao notes, “It is not that we have excess capacity; it is that we have an extremely loose monetary policy.” She contends that it will change as the Chinese government begins considering how to deal with inflation.

Michael Komesaroff, an Australia-based analyst of Asian commodity markets, notes in a recent trade-journal article that China’s steel mills, aluminium smelters and other manufacturing plants “still produce far more than the country can absorb. Excess production at home is exported, depressing international prices.”

Neville Smith, in-country manager at Gardiner & Theobald, an international construction-cost consultant, says construction cost indexes peaked in 2008 but have stabilized with commodity shortages. China’s push to acquire raw goods abroad “has rarely been out of the news, but the Chinese government has addressed the problem of insufficient supply,” he says. Smith adds that with the recession reducing demand, shortages seem to be a thing of the past.

According to Smith, clients of his firm experienced cost problems only with steel. However, since most contracts are set for periods of 18 months or longer, steel’s nine-month price peak in 2008 was not an issue. In response, China’s Tender Management Office, which approves large projects in Beijing, has asked for contract clauses to permit price fluctuations in the future, a sign that the “government is taking away protections for foreign clients in these areas,” he says.

In addition to China’s CPI nudging into the positive column this year, its property price index grew 5.7% in November on top of a 3.5% hike in October. Monetary policy remains unchanged, but Yao says many households and businesses are making banking and investment decisions with expectations of rising inflation.

Total investment in construction projects between January 2009 and August 2009 has increased by 36.2% year-on-year, while total planned investment in new projects in the same period has risen by 81.7%, year-on-year. By mid-2010, the Chinese government will need to limit stimulus spending or increase currency value to counter inflation.

With increased construction activity countrywide, tender prices are expected to increase mildly in the next few months. China’s year-on-year GDP growth was 7.7% in the third quarter of 2009, compared to 7.1% in the second quarter—the fastest growth since the financial crisis hit the market last year, reports Kong Yu, director in Hong Kong for global construction-cost consulting firm Rider Levett Bucknall. Construction activity in most major cities has continued to be strong, resulting in some mild upward cost movement. Tender prices are expected to continue a mild upward trend.

In Hong Kong, bid prices have stabilized after declining for three consecutive quarters since the third quarter of 2008, reports Rider Levett. Bidding levels have increased since midyear, and market outlooks are improved, particularly with large infrastructure projects on the horizon and talk of an imminent resumption of construction on the neighboring island of Macau. Bid tender prices in Hong Kong are reversing a downward trend and will rise mildly in the next few months, with more significant increases by mid-2010, according to Yu.

On the mainland, inflationary pressures might push the Chinese government to revaluate its currency, the renminbi. Since “China’s economy is growing much faster than anyone else’s…its currency ought to be rising, not falling,” says one economic journal in China. Some observers are predicting that, by mid-2010, the government will need to limit stimulus spending or increase the currency value to counter inflation.

As for future cost predictions, some look to Vice Minister Peng’s commitment to enable market-determined prices for such resources as water, electricity and natural gas. One initiative includes plans to open 20% of the power market and allow direct price negotiation with China’s two state power monopolies.

Published in the Winter Cost Report of the Engineering News-Record, 12/16/09.

After decades of success with Hong Kong’s M at the Fringe and Shanghai’s M on the Bund, legendary restaurateur Michelle Garnaut brings her refined Continental–Mediterranean cuisine to the Chinese capital with Capital M (3rd floor, No. 2 Qianmen Pedestrian St.; 86-10/6702-2727; capital-m-beijing.com; dinner for two including drinks RMB400). Located on the top floor of a modern gray-brick complex at the entrance of a recently pedestrianized Ming-era area, the 400-seat eatery boasts unobstructed views of Tiananmen Square. But diners will probably spend more time admiring the interiors. Created by the team behind Garnaut’s other eateries, the dining room recalls the Belle Époque: in-laid black-and-white floor tiles form geometric patterns, referencing fin de siècle Viennese mansions, while terrazo bathroom walls lined with gold swirls allude to Art Nouveau. The masterpiece is a 50-meter Klimt-like hand-painted mural by artist Michael Cartwright that spans the length of one of the restaurant’s walls. The menu lists classics such as suckling pig and the gravity-defying Pavlova—a nod to Garnaut’s Aussie roots—as well as small plates perfect for sharing, like smørrebrød and a choice of Russian, French, English or Chinese afternoon teas. And the large outdoor terrace is perfect for the fall weather.—MANUELA ZONINSEIN

Here is a PDF of the original article.


Originally published in the October 2009 issue of Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia.

Originally published in the November 2009 issue of Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia.

Zhuang

From the team behind the Face restaurant–bar complexes in Bangkok, Jakarta and Shanghai comes this 16-room hotel housed in a former 1960’s Communist Era grammar school. In Mandarin, “zhuang” means village, and in this case, it’s the global village that’s being alluded to. Indonesian lava-rock statues greet visitors by the lobby while tatami mats mingle with Ming dynasty–style, red-lacquered rosewood furniture and peony print–covered sofas in the guest rooms. Overstuffed beds and deep bathtubs lend a homey touch. Rooms vary in size, ranging between a couple meters squared–as in the case of cozy Room 308, called the “Wedding room” for its traditional Shanghai-style “princess” bed–to long-term and livable 20 meters squared, as in Room 305, including a cozy sitting area. The pan-Asian theme continues elsewhere on the premises, where discerning diners can sup at Hazara, Lanna Thai or Jia restaurants. 26 Dongcaoyuan, Gongti Nanlu; 86-10/6551-6788; facebars.com; doubles from 1200RMB, breakfast included.

3plus1bedrooms

The brainchild of Malaysian restaurateur Cho Chong Gee, this recently opened property situated in a 4-centuries-year-old siheyuan has, as its name suggest, only three guest rooms and one suite. The rooms’ rigorous minimalism—nearly all-white interiors with little décor—belies modern comforts such as 400-count sheets, iPods and Wi-Fi. All four also boast private courtyards, while the suite and one of the deluxe rooms have rooftop terraces where you can observe the daily rhythms of life in a hutong. (There’s a larger terrace that all guests have access to.) Better yet, three of Cho’s other establishments—the Southeast Asia–inspired Café Sambal, Bed Bar and the plain-chic Paper restaurant—are all within walking distance from the hotel. 17 Zhangwang Hutong off Jiu Gulou Dajie; 86-10/6404-7030; 3plus1bedrooms.com; doubles from 1400RMB, breakfast and daily mini-bar refills included.

Guxiang 20

Opened in 2007 on Nanluoguxiang, one of the city’s first gentrified hutongs, this hotel offers 28 comfortable rooms filled with antique furniture, hand-carved wooden screens and modern comforts like flat-screen TV’s. It’s worth upgrading to the luxury rooms, which have large balconies overlooking the lively street scene below; there’s even a rooftop tennis court. The restaurant and public areas are a hodgepodge of operatic Western touches such as chandeliers thrown in together with silk Chinese lanterns. It doesn’t quite work, but the attentive staff—still a rarity in the Chinese capital—more than compensates. 20 Nanluoguxiang; 86-10/6400-5566; guxiang20.com; doubles from RMB1,280, breakfast included.

DuGe Courtyard Boutique Hotel

Understatement is definitely not the operating principle here. From the bold red-and-blue front doors to the 10 individually designed, exuberant rooms and suites, this tiny gem of a hotel invites its guests to luxuriate in their imperial surroundings; after all, it’s housed in the former residence of a high-ranking Qing dynasty minister. Designed by a Belgian–Chinese husband-and-wife team, the rooms range from the ultra-feminine Peony Pavilion to the sleek Oriental, where red lacquered furnishings play off black-hued monogrammed upholstery and wallpaper. Among our favorites is the coolly serene, jade-and-white Bamboo, where an intricately carved “moon” screen separates the bedroom from the parlor. To get into the spirit of the locale, guests can sign up for taichi, gongfu or qigong lessons, held right in the courtyard. Qianyuanensi Hutong, off of Nanluoguxiang, 86-10/6406-0686; dugecourtyard.com; doubles from 1700RMB.

The Aman at Summer Palace

Amanresorts prides itself on historical and cultural accuracy, and it spared no expense at this Beijing property, which abuts one of the city’s most significant historic sites. Around 400 craftsmen and preservation experts were hired to restore the courtyards and pavilions of the Qing dynasty dwellings that house most of the 51 rooms and suites. Details such as hand-painted clay tiles from Yunnan province—similar to the ones found in the Forbidden City—Ming-style armoires, rickshaws and carved screens transport guests to a different era. As a testament to the resort’s success, moneyed locals fill the rooms on the weekends, while the three restaurants lure residents and tourists alike. Not all the appeal lies in the imperial touches: we spotted a fleet of retro Phoenix bikes at the ready for guests looking for some real local flavor. 1 Gongmenqian Street, Summer Palace; 86-10/5987-9999; amanresorts.com; doubles from US$550.

China Countryside Hotels

Just beyond the hubbub of the Great Wall’s tourists and touts lies Mutianyu, a quiet farming village where a number of Beijingers have built weekend getaways. Set in the Huairou hills amid the village’s apricot orchards, this collection of 11 private residences is perfect for those seeking another side to the hectic capital. All the houses have been fashioned out of restored local homes: the Pavilion features the grey floor tiles and mahogany-framed windows that are characteristic of a siheyuan while Grandma’s Place retains its original carved doorways. They’re rustic, but homey, with full-service kitchens and modern bathrooms. With four bedrooms, sauna and outdoor gas grill, Heart’s Repose is particularly well-suited for families. The Schoolhouse, 12 Mutianyu Village, Huairou District, about 50 minutes outside of downtown Beijing; 86-10/6162-6282; chinacountrysidehotels.com; rentals from RMB1,800, breakfast included.

Originally published in the October issue of Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia.

Cities worldwide are trying to reduce their carbon footprints. T+L partnered with Greenopia, the leading publisher of eco-guides to U.S. cities (greenopia.com), applying Greenopia’s environmental criteria to hotels, restaurants, stores and sites in Paris, London, Stockholm and Shanghai.

§ Meets at least 25% of Greenopia’s criteria

§§ Meets at least 50% of Greenopia’s criteria

§§§ Meets at least 75% of Greenopia’s criteria

§§§§ Meets at least 90% of Greenopia’s criteria

STAY

In a city where hotels seem to compete on height and lavishness, URBN Shanghai §§§§ (183 Jiaozhou Lu; 86-21/5153-4600; urbnhotels.com; doubles from RMB1,300) stands out for its size — 26 rooms — and its Zen-like atmosphere. It also towers over others in its eco-ambitions: housed in a former post office in the pedestrian friendly French Concession, the hotel features repurposed materials such as mahogany planks and bricks from old houses and vintage furniture. Courses in Mandarin, Chinese cuisine and tai chi put travelers in touch with the local culture. It’s also China’s first carbon-neutral hotel, with investments going towards alternative energy projects.

EAT

Vintage Living §§§§ (2068 Nanjing Xi Lu; 86-21/6249-8419; vintageliving.cn; dinner for two from RMB200) dishes up American-style home cooking made from produce harvested from its own organic farm outside of the city. Brunch on the rooftop garden is a favorite among expats — make sure to try the blueberry french toast.

Made from yak’s milk, Mei Xiang Cheese §§§ is produced by a Tibetan family in Yunnan province, part of an initiative to help herders become entrepreneurs. In Shanghai, you can taste this tangy cheese at Jujube Tree (258 Fengxian Lu; 86-21/ 6215- 7566; dinner for two RMB200), a vegetarian eatery, and at Just Grapes (justgrapes.cn), a wine shop–restaurant with three locations.

SHOP

Located in a revamped factory in Shanghai’s artsy neighborhood of Taikang Lu, Nest §§§§ (210 Taikang Lu; 86-21/6466-9524; nestshanghai.com) showcases handcrafted housewares, clothing, stationery and furniture from local designers who embrace the earth-friendly ethos. Among our favorites are Bambu, colorful dining ware fashioned from bamboo; A00, a line of furniture created out of recycled plywood and cardboard; and Hape’s toys (handmade trucks and dolls) made from certified wood and other natural materials.

DO

No, Naked Retreats §§§ (248 Taikang Lu; 86-21/5465- 9577; nakedretreats.cn; RMB350 per person weekday; RMB450 per person weekend) isn’t a nudist colony, but a rustic-chic getaway in the bamboo forest of Moganshan, about two hours from Shanghai. Solar power heats the water in the bungalows, while recycled water irrigates the grounds. Guests get a taste for local life with activities like bamboo-shoot hunting and tea harvesting.

Dragon Well Manor §§§ (399 Longjing Lu; 86-71/8788-8777; dinner priced according to ingredients) demonstrates that locavore-eating isn’t just a Western conceit. The chefs use pesticide-free, seasonal produce sourced daily from local farms. Sauces and additives are shunned.

Originally published as part of the September GREEN CITY SPECIAL FROM TRAVEL + LEISURE and GREENOPIA

Night owls have plenty to choose from in the Chinese capital, from world-class restaurants to indie music clubs. By MANUELA ZONINSEIN

6:00 P.M. Start the evening surveying the city from the 65th floor of the Park Hyatt Beijing, where you’ll fi nd the suave China Bar (2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District; 86-10/8567-1234; beijing.park.hyatt.com; drinks for two RMB150). Before admiring the 360-degree panorama, a rarity in Beijing, peruse the exhaustive drinks menu, which lists more than 440 wines and nearly 100 cocktails. (We recommend the expertly made Manhattan.) With your drink in hand, join the well-heeled guests on black leather sofas or take a seat by the bar fashioned out of illuminated, translucent onyx for a front-seat view of the sunset. Then turn your attention eastwards to the iconic, OMA-designed CCTV towers (and its charred neighbor, the TVCC, where the Mandarin Oriental Beijing was meant to be).

7:00 P.M. Take a cab to the historic Legation Quarter, newly renamed 23 Chi’enmen (23 Qianmen Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District; legationquarter.com), Beijing’s destination du jour just southeast of Tiananmen Square. Originally built to house U.S. diplomatic offices at the turn of the last century, the stately stone complex is now home to a contemporary art gallery, a Patek Philippe outlet, restaurants and, come next fall, a wine and jazz bar. Tour the elegant quad before claiming your table at the opulent Maison Boulud (86-10/6559-9200; maisonboulud.com; dinner for two RMB1,200). Daniel Boulud’s first Asian effort is as high-caliber as his famed New York eateries; diners tuck into Eastern-influenced French fare amid neoclassical murals and Art Deco furnishings custom designed by Paris-based Gilles & Boissier. We recommend starting with the king crab, which comes wrapped in avocado and accompanied by carrot coulis, followed by the crispy suckling pig with apple coleslaw, Dijon mustard jus and daikon sauerkraut. Make sure to request a view of the back room where Henry Kissinger met Zhou Enlai in 1972 to arrange then-president Richard Nixon’s historic visit.

If you’re looking for a more casual ambience, head over to Beijing’s hipster hotel, The Opposite House, and sup at Sureño (The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang District; 86-10/6410-5240; surenorestaurant.com; dinner for two RMB500), a buzzing Mediterranean eatery with cerulean walls that lures the city’s worldly young professionals. A wood-fired oven delivers the city’s most authentic thin crust pizzas, but save room for the Italian ham with white truffle honey and melon.

9:00 P.M. Designed by Japanese minimalist master Kengo Kuma, The Opposite House boasts an impressive collection of contemporary Chinese art on view in its lobby. After viewing artworks such as Wang Jin’s PVC rendition of an imperial robe, go underground—literally—with Punk (86-10/6410-5222; barpunk.com; drinks for two RMB100), an edgy nightclub designed by Shanghai design darlings Neri & Hu, who’ve decorated the space with moveable pods and moody backlit walls. Expect pierced staff, music-mad locals and a line-up of international DJ’s spinning hip-hop, techno, house and more.

10:00 P.M. Punk stays open until 3 A.M., but there’s a lot of live music to be discovered in Beijing, which boasts one of Asia’s liveliest indie rock scenes. Before beginning the club crawl, stroll through The Village at Sanlitun, a short walk south of The Opposite House. A colorful collection of asymmetric glass-and-steel buildings, this lively retail and entertainment complex attracts a crowd late into the night. Then hail a cab and head over to Mao Livehouse (111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District; 86-10/6402-5080; maolive.com; tickets from RMB20), a gutted cinema that’s now the testing ground for local up-and-coming indie rockers and occasional acts from overseas.

12:00 A.M. Across from Mao Livehouse is Nanluoguxiang, a gentrifi ed hutong that’s packed with quirky-cool boutiques, cozy cafés and cheap-as-chips bars. Choose any of the convivial waterholes for a RMB10 beer, though we favor Salud (66 Nanluoguxiang; 86-10/6402-5086; drinks for two
RMB60) for its homemade rums that come in fl avors such as mango and anise. For a posher nightcap, join revelers at LAN Club (Fourth floor, Twin Towers, B12 Jianguomenwai Dajie; 86-10/5109-6012). Designed by Philippe Starck, it’s a celebration of excess: velvet chaise longues, crystal chandeliers and gilded chairs. Framed oil paintings cover the ceiling. It’s worth seeing—if only for the kitsch value and the sight of Beijing’s beautiful people preening.

Published in the September issue of Travel+Leisure Southeast Asia.